by

The O’Donovan/Donovan Castles

After growing tired of only finding bits and pieces of information about the castles affiliated with the O’Donovans, I have attempted to compile a unified place to learn about the castles built by and lived in by the O’Donovan clan.  Much of my information comes from the O’Donovan history book that was complied for the Gathering in 2000 as well as from Mainchín Seoighe‘s  book From Bruree to Corcomohide.

Originally, The Donovans settled near Bruree, Croom and Kilmallock in County Limerick before being forced out.  After leaving Limerick, The Donovans settled between Castlehaven and Rosscarbery inlet on the coast of Cork and inland as far as the Mealagh River.  After the relocation, the Clann Cathail sept established a seat at Castle Donovan.

Castle Donovan/Caisleán Uí Dhonnabháin

Castle Donovan (known as Suagh when in use) is the most well known of the Donovan castles.  Located north of Drimoleague, roughly at 51°41’35,60″ N, 9°16’55,44″ W (Map reference W113496(1113,0496))– it is signposted from Drimoleague.  It is found almost equidistant from Dunmanway and Bantry on the Dunmanway-Bantry Road.  Try this link to see a grid reference map.

The castle itself is a tower house style castle, typical of the time in Ireland.   The dimensions of the castle are: 61 feet (19 meters) tall, 47 feet (14 m) long, and 26 feet (8 meters) wide with 6 foot thick walls.  The walls are a mixture of lime, sand, gravel, horse hair and animal blood.  The structure is four stories tall plus an attic with a 91 step spiral staircase in the Northwest corner that led from the ground to the top of the castle.  Originally the castle had a bawn (surrounding wall) and outbuildings surrounding the tower.

It was built on a rock outcropping facing to the south of the glen and featured mural chambers (small rooms hollowed out within a wall) in the west wall, fireplaces on the first and third floors, large windows on the second and third floors, bartizans at the Northeast and Southeast corners, and a parapet (or battlement) on the top. The parapets were supported by strong balconies on which sat small cannons.  Beneath the balconies were openings known as machicolations, through which defenders could drop items onto attackers.  The main door was made of heavy oak and located on the western side.  The doorway was decorated with a Gothic limestone arch.  In front of the entrance was a huge flat topped rock, known as Carraig na Mart, which was used to slaughter sheep and cattle for food.  One room (probably the lower rooms) was used for food storage for the garrison at the castle, another room was used for storing gunpowder and cannonballs.

In 1649, Cromwellians attacked Castle Donovan in retaliation for Dónall III siding with the Stuarts and participating in the Rebellion of 1641.  The defenders escaped by night after they had run out of ammunition.  The attack marked the end of the castle as a residence and eventually led to the collapse of the southern wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A photo of the castle taken some time between 1880 and 1900 can be seen here.

The glen that surrounds Castle Donovan:

 

After 12 years of renovations, the castle was opened to the public in the summer of 2013.  I made a return visit in June of 2018.  You can now enter into the foyer of the castle.  From here you can see into the (gated and locked) staircase and the (gated and locked) lower floor room.  From here you are also able to see some of the impressive fireplaces that exist on the higher floors.  The pictures are below:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The staircase:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Castle Rasheen/Raheen/Rathín

Places like this are why tourists come to Ireland. The castle stands largely intact on the eastern bank on Castle Haven Harbour (the village of Castletownshend is across the Harbour).  If you look at this Ordinance Survey map, you can see the castle marked just to the west of Raheen.

After the fall of Castle Donovan, this became the main Donovan castle protecting trade interests in the harbour.  Built in 1584 by Dónall II, this was the principle residence of Dónal III.  Placed in Myross parish to guard the southern border of the clan’s territory, it is smaller but similar to Castle Donovan.

The walls were damaged by Cromwell’s Naval attack (in the 1640s) and the eastern wall has completely collapsed.  The castle was lost when Dónall IV backed the Spanish (who lost) at Kinsale in 1691.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We made a return visit to what is one of my favorites in June 2018.  Though on a map it looks like you should take the road past the home that is nearest the castle for a view.  The only good view of this castle (without permission from the landowners) is from the road with the pier (it can be seen jutting into the harbour in the photo above).  If you are a more adventurous sort, at low tide I think you could walk along the coast to get pretty close to the castle.  I have not actually done this, but it looks possible if you are determined.

Here are the photos from June 2018:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Castle Ivor/Eyre

Located near Union Hall village (in the townland of Listarkin) on a rocky mound overlooking Lough Cluhir (Clubir), the north and west walls are all that remain of Castle Ivor (Castle Eyre).  You can see the castle marked on this Ordinance Survey map.

This one is hard to find without a map.  The road is also not very wide.  If you are accustomed to rural roads in Cork or Donegal it is not a surprise, but might be a tighter squeeze than most North Americans are comfortable with in a rental car.

Built in 1251 (some sources say 1220), this was the seat of the Sliocht Íomhair sept of the O’Donovans.  Ivor‘s family resided in the castle until the mid 16th century, when it was lost to Dónall of Castle Donovan.   Legend has it that Ivor was a magician and still is seen to this day.  There are two versions of the story:  Version 1…  Every seven years Ivor’s ship briefly appears on Lough Cluhir then disappears.  Version 2… If any O’Donovan is about to die, Ivor’s ship appears on the lough.

We made a return visit in June 2018.  I had been meaning to do this for 18 years, but the visit had never materialized.  I had only viewed this ruin through the window of a coach previously, so I was very pleased to get the opportunity to stop and have a relaxed view of the place.

Here are the photos from June 2018:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bawnlahan/Banlahan

Map Ref: W1973234046
Latitude: 51.553888N Longitude: 9.15799W

Try this link to see a grid reference map.

Located near Castle Ivor in Myross, Banlahan was built in the early 17th century (most likely) by Dònall III.  After Castle Raheen was damaged, this became the “seat” of the O’Donovans.  This site is reported to be currently enclosed by an inner and outer wall, but I have not visited the site (it appears to be a private residence).  It was later known as Castle Jane.

Clocha’tStráidbhaile/Cloghatrabally/Glandore Castle
The Clann Lochlainn sept ruled 67 townlands between the river Roury and Glandore Harbour.  This castle served as the seat of the sept in the hamlet overlooking Glandore Harbour.  It was originally built by the Barretts in 1215 but was lost to Clan Lochlainn in or around 1261.  The castle is said to have had underground passages that led to the sea-side.  By 1620, the Clan Lochlainn sept held almost as much land as the head of the O’Donovans. Today it is know as Glandore Castle.

My only visit was in June 2018.  This is a private residence so I did not attempt to take pictures of the house, though I understand that portions of the original house have been incorporated into a more modern home.  I did however stop to take pictures of this gate.  It appears to be an old entrance to the castle.

Latitude: 51.56685 N   Longitude: -9.12215 W

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bruree, Co. Limerick

Is this Cathair Cuan?
Donnabhán had a fortress at Bruree named Cathair Cuan.  The fact that “Cathair” is used in the name suggests that it was a ring fort.  All of the existing ringforts in the Bruree area today are earthen.  It is thought that the bawn (the stone wall upon which the De Lacy Castle now stands) that runs alongside of the River Maigue in Lotteragh Upper is the remains of the fort.

The wall is located very near to the old royal earthen forts (on the same farm) and made of pre-Norman sandstone bricks that were clearly made by a different mason than the Norman tower house.  According to T.J. Westropp, the wall was part of a D-shaped fort made of better construction than the De Lacy Tower.

To find the site, head west of the village (I believe you can find it west of the village off of R518 – the first right after you leave the village).  It is on private property, so you will have to ask permission to go on the farm.

 

by