Ireland With Children 3 – Leaving the Gaeltacht: Monasterboice and Swords

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TripsWithKevin Flashback: 10 years ago today.

July 7, 2018

We left An Bun Beag this morning just after nine.  It was sunny and 20° as we pulled out of Gaoth Dobhair.  This is our third week in Ireland and not a day of rain nor a day under 15°!  We purposely left a bit early today because on our last trip this route took a long time.  Today however, it was a wonderful drive.

Car rental Ireland

The boot of our Nissan Qashqui packed for the return trip across Ireland

I made a bathroom stop at the McDonald’s in Strabane where we also bought a tea and a coffee.  Just like the McDonald’s in Omagh it was remarkably clean.  We sailed across the island until I thought my bladder would burst.  We stopped in Carrickmacross, got an amazing parking spot in the center of town and ate a nice, quick lunch at Supermac’s.  It took 3:10 from the time we pulled out of our house in Gaoth Dobhair to the time we parked for lunch.

Refreshed from our break, we stopped at Monasterboice (2 years later than originally planned).  Monasterboice is the site of a monastery founded by St. Buite who died in 581. The monastery lasted until 1122, but not much is known about the daily life in this monastery.  Fortunately they left behind two splendid high crosses, one of which is often said to be the finest in Ireland.

When you make the walk into the graveyard at this site you can’t help but be drawn to Muiredach’s Cross.  Erected in the 10th century by Muiredach (there is an inscription on the base that states this).  Most think this refers to Muiredach mac Domhnall, abbot of Amagh.  This splendid cross contains easy to see carvings of Adam and Eve, Cain and Abel, David and Goliath, Moses, the adoration of the Magi, and Christ in Judgement (as well as others).  If you are interested in High Crosses, this is a must-see for you.  It really is in much superior condition to others you have probably seen.

Muiredach's Cross, Monasterboice

The west face of Muiredach’s Cross, Monasterboice

Muiredach's Cross, Monasterboice

The east face of Muiredach’s Cross, Monasterboice

Muiredach's Cross, Monasterboice

Close up of the west face of Muiredach’s Cross, Monasterboice

Muiredach's Cross, Monasterboice

The southern side of Muiredach’s Cross, Monasterboice

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The South Church is the older of the two remaining church buildings at this site.  Though this building saw many phases of modifications, it was originally built in the 11th century, modified in the 12th century and then the final stage of changes occurred in the 15th and 16th centuries.

South Church Monasterboice

The interior of the South Church at Monasterboice with the Round Tower in the background

South Church, Monasterboice

The exterior of the South Church, Monasterboice

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The West Cross, also known as the Tall Cross, was also erected in the 10th century and is the tallest example of an Irish High Cross that is still standing.  It is interesting to compare the differences between this cross and Muiredah’s Cross.  This cross is taller and more slender and is also made of four different types of stone instead of one large piece of stone.  The carvings here are also in wonderful condition and easy to view.

The West Cross (The Tall Cross), Monasterboice

The West Cross (The Tall Cross), Monasterboice

The West Cross (The Tall Cross), Monasterboice

The west face of The West Cross (The Tall Cross), Monasterboice

West Cross (the Tall Cross), Monasterboice

The southern face of the West Cross (the Tall Cross), Monasterboice

The West Cross and Round Tower, Monasterboice

The West Cross and Round Tower, Monasterboice

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The North Church was originally constructed in the 13th century.  This simple church is located very close to the West Cross and the entrance to the church is across from the entrance to the Round Tower.

The North Church, West Cross, and Round Tower at Monasterboice

The North Church, West Cross, and Round Tower at Monasterboice

North Church, Monasterboice

The western door to the North Church, Monasterboice

North Church and Round Tower, Monasterboice

Fionnuala (6) looks through the door of the North Church while Liam (9) looks through the door to the Round Tower

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 10th century Round Tower is one of the tallest surviving round towers in Ireland.  It stands at about 28.5 m tall.  Inside the tower has five stories, but the cap is missing from the top.  This building (as is typical) was used as both a belfry and storage facility.

The Round Tower of Monasterboice

The Round Tower of Monasterboice

The North Cross (also 10th century) is the least obvious of the main attractions at Monasterboice.  This cross is partially reconstructed (the modern limestone shaft is noticeable).  Due to the smooth sides it is assumed that this cross was once painted.  There is also a sundial next to the cross.  The sundial dates to either the 8th or 9th century and you can see the markers for canonical hours (times for prayer and worship) still engraved on the sundial.

North Cross, Monasterboice

The west face of the North Cross, Monasterboice

North Cross, Monasterboice

The east face of the North Cross, Monasterboice

North Cross, Monasterboice

The head of the North Cross, Monasterboice

The North Cross and sundial, Monasterboice

The North Cross and sundial, Monasterboice

Monasterboice sundial

The ssundial at Monasterboice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This site was more impressive than I anticipated and am glad that we finally made it.  The crosses lived up to the billing and the rest of the complex was interesting as well.  The children very much enjoyed the crosses, the churches, the round tower and even the different graves (it is still used for burials).

The car park was mostly full when we arrived about 1:30 PM.  I was also surprised at how large the toilet facility was too.  After looking around at a leisurely pace, we left and made the short and surprisingly easy drive to Evergreen B&B outside of Swords.

Monasterboice

The car park at Monasterboice

Monasterboice

Toilets and picnic tables at Monasterboice

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What a nice B&B Evergreen is and what a lovely room.  Jimmy greeted us upon arrival and couldn’t have been nicer (especially since they were preparing for his birthday party!).  It was nice relaxing in this fantastic B&B for a few hours.  Mary and Jimmy are really fantastic hosts.

Evergreen B&B, Swords

Our family room at Evergreen B&B, Swords

Evergreen B&B, Swords

The sitting area and bathroom at Evergreen B&B

Evergreen B&B, Swords

The sitting area at Evergreen B&B

Evergreen B&B, Swords

Our bathroom at Evergreen B&B

Evergreen B&B, Swords

The outdoor entrance to the rooms

Evergreen B&B, Swords

The outdoor area for the rooms at Evergreen B&B

Evergreen B&B, Swords

The outdoor seating area for our room at Evergreen B&B

Evergreen B&B, Swords

The large garden area in front of Evergreen B&B

Evergreen B&B, Swords

The breakfast menu for Evergreen B&B

Evergreen B&B, Swords

The dining room at Evergreen B&B

Evergreen B&B, Swords

The other side of the dining room

At about 7 o’clock we headed up the road a short ways to the Rogarstown Golf and Country Club (Jimmy’s recommendation) where we ate in the bar (O’ Callaghan’s Bar).  The food was good and the hotel looked like it was nice.  After a nice meal it was back to Evergreen to prepare for our last night of a wonderful trip.

O'Callaghan's Bar, Swords

The menu at O’Callaghan’s Bar, Swords

O'Callaghan's Bar, Swords

The Kid’s Menu at O’Callaghan’s Bar, Swords

July 8, 2018

The drive from Evergreen to the Avis lot at Dublin Airport was 15 minutes.  We were on the shuttle to the terminal 30 minutes after we had left the B&B!  We arrived at our gate 1:59 after leaving the B&B!  Our first use of Global Entry worked very smoothly and made a big difference in the amount of time it took us to get through the airport.  What a great place to stay the night before a flight.  This will be be our new go to place on our last night!

Our departure this year was generally more pleasant and easy than last visit (which was very rushed and stressful).  We stayed 30 minutes closer to the airport and we joined the Global Entry program.  Both of which made the morning more relaxed and enjoyable.

We have already started thinking about where will we stay on our next visit!

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