12 July, 2008
This morning, we awoke still a bit full from the Chinese food and had a much smaller, but still delicious breakfast. The owner’s at Number 31 were worried because we ate so little!! We tried our best to assure them that the food was delicious.
One of the great things about Number 31 is it’s location across the street from St. Stephen’s Green and Grafton Street. St. Stephen’s Green is an ideal urban park. It feels like you are completely removed from the city for the time you are inside. It was once owned by the Guinness family, but they donated it to the city. It has ponds, bridges, gazebos and rare quiet in the heart of Dublin.
From Number 31, if you walk through St. Stephen’s Green and out the opposite corner you find yourself on Grafton Street. Grafton Street is a pedestrian only street that runs from St. Stephen’s Green in the south to Trinity College on the northern end. In between is an essential part of a visit to Dublin. The street has shops that run from fast-food to upscale shopping. Lining the street will be as many buskers as you could ever imagine (I can’t think of ever hearing a bad one either). Perhaps the most famous place on the street is Bewley’s Cafe, once frequented by James Joyce, Patrick Kavanagh, Samuel Beckett and mentioned in Joyce’s book Dubliners. If you have seen the film Once, there is a wonderful scene of Glen Hansard busking on Grafton Street near the gate to St. Stephen’s Green.
It’s our last day here and it’s been nice to slow down the pace the last couple of days. I’m really exhausted! We met Éamonn for coffee and then walked to Kilmainham to see the jail. Admission is €6, but we used our Heritage Passes (what a great deal!). I can’t believe I had never been before. The tour is really moving. The place makes you feel very somber and sober. Perhaps made more so by this being the 12th. Kilmainham Jail opened in 1796 and was used primarily by the British to house Irish nationalists. Virtually every important nationalist leader spent time here. Perhaps most crucially, the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising were held and executed here.
Tomorrow early in the morning we are off back home. What a full trip!
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