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4 July, 2008
The flight to Inis Mór/Inishmore was exciting! (As I expected it might be) I booked the €80 flight and B&B package through Aer Arann. When I did, I was told to be at the airport at 9:30 AM, and that we would return the next day at 10:15 AM. When we arrived at the airport, they informed us that our flight would return at 3:15 the next afternoon (which was only an issue because we were already booked in somewhere for the evening) . So, they said that they would try to get us on a morning flight. We accepted this and got on our plane, but not until after having our bags and ourselves weighed! We then were placed in the plane which had eight seats (including the pilot). It was fantastic!
The inside of our plane from Connemara to Inis Mór
The seat over the wing seems to be the one where the heaviest people go, and also had no window. We, luckily, had spectacular views out of our windows. The water looked like the Caribbean and the scenery was possibly more beautiful from the air.
View from Aer Arann as we approach Inis Mór
Our first glimpse of Inís Mór
Heading for the airport on Inis Mór
Landing on Inis Mór
The landing strip at Aerphort Inis Mór
Upon landing, a bus took us to our B&B for €10 return trip even though it was 10:30 AM. We dropped our bags off and headed to rent some bikes. It was a wonderful day for it (16° C). We went to Burke Bicycle Hire (under Supermacs) near the pier. The bikes were €10 for the day. After renting the bikes, we went to the Tourist Office to get an Ordinance Survey map (€7), and started out. The girl at the Tourist Office was so helpful that I couldn’t believe it. We set out down the Coast Road on the bike guy’s recommendation and it was wonderful. If you don’t know Irish, you should familiarize yourself with the Irish version of places you don’t want to miss as some signs are only in Irish. The Aran Islands are the place in Ireland where Irish is most used.
The day was beautiful as we cycled along the flat coast road. On our way we passed stone walled fields on our left and the ocean on our right. We passed Mainistir Chiaráin, the remains of a medieval monastery. It was St. Kieran’s first monastery, and the site where he would receive the vision that led him to found Clanmacnoise. We also passed some rocks known as the seal colony, but the seals weren’t out sunning. We did have a SNAFU when Sarah’s chain came off (next to the lovely Kilmurvey Beach), but she fixed it and we proceeded to Dún Aonghasa.
Views from the coast road between Cill Rónáin and Kilmurvey Breach
Another view from the coast road between Cill Rónáin and Kilmurvey Breach
the coast road between Cill Rónáin and Kilmurvey Breach
This is the most impressive of all of Ireland’s prehistoric Stone Forts and one of four similar forts on Inishmore. Admission is normally €3, but we used our Heritage Pass (our pass has paid for itself already — any other Heritage site we see is essentially free). Even though I’d been to Ireland nine times before, I’d never gotten to see this fort. It was at the top of my “To See” list. The fort itself is impressive and the tea shop served really good sandwiches. The march from the Visitor Center to the fort is long though, and pretty rough. At the end of the climb though, we were rewarded with the stunning cliff views that the Cliffs of Moher were missing— amazing, scary drops straight to the ocean.
Dún Aonghasa
Frisian soldiers outside the walls of Dún Aonghasa
The stone spikes slow the advancement of any attackers
The cliff in the fort of Dún Aonghasa
Visitors to Dún Aonghasa peer over the sheer cliff inside Dún Aonghasa
We went further up the coast and stopped at the Clochán na Carraige. This one was totally in tact. After negotiating the cows that were guarding the path (thanks to some other visitors) we were rewarded by being able to climb in and see what it was like. It is considered to be one of the best preserved cloghans in the world and possibly was built as part of the Seven Churches complex (see below) As we pulled away, MY chain came off!
Clochán na Carraige
Across the road from Clochán na Carraige is most untempting Hostel of all time
The fields alongside the road look like The Burren
Decoration on a standing stone inside Na Seacht dTeampaill (The Seven Churches)
We looked at the other monuments from a distance until we reached Na Seacht dTeampaill (The Seven Churches). The Seven Churches is actually a monastic ruin dating to about 800. As a former pilgrimage site, it might have once had seven churches, but only two are still standing. The only known pilgrim’s hostels from the Middle Ages are among the building located here. Many of the many buildings and grave stones are intricately decorated. Even with a large group there, this place had a special feeling. All the way at the end of the road was a nice view of the coast.
The view as you enter Na Seacht dTeampaill
The Small Chapel at Na Seacht dTeampaill complex
One of the smaller buildings in Na Seacht dTeampaill complex
Graves at Na Seacht dTeampaill, Inis Mór
One of the smaller building in Na Seacht dTeampaill
Looking toward the mainland from Na Seacht dTeampaill
This video gives a good idea of the site, but I didn’t film it.
At this point, we turned back. Our butt’s were pretty sore and we’d been biking around for a few hours. We started back home only to realize that most of the coast road was uphill going home. Then it started to rain. It actually wasn’t too hard and felt pretty nice. We dropped off the bikes a little before 4 PM and walked back to our B&B, Claí Bán.
Inis Mór, The Hawaii of Ireland
Claí Bán is really nice and well located. We rested for two hours, and I called Aer Arann and we got on the 9:15 AM flight. We then headed out in the rain to the American Bar. We had two delicious burgers with a big pile of chips (french fries) and two drinks for about €20. On the way home we stopped at the giant Spar and got drenched walking home. It was really wonderful day all around.
Our room at Claí Bán
Day 6 Ireland Itinerary
Spiddal to Connemara Airport (10 minutes)
Inis Mór, Aran Islands (total time from entering Connemara Airport to our B&B 1 Hour)
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