Coill An Róis – Dingle (An Daingean), Co. Kerry  –  The best accommodation in the South

Let me begin with this, I have been to Ireland fifteen times and Coill An Róis is the one place I would stay if I only had one choice.  Jimmy (the owner) is an attentive, friendly, accommodating host.

The whole place was wonderful.  When we reached the breakfast room, Jimmy was waiting.  We had a nice talk about the last night, the morning and life in general.  He then presented us with homemade bread, muffins, scones and tea as we ate our cereal.  We thought that was delicious until he brought out the rest of our breakfast.  My wife had a fruit plate which had 8-10 different types of fruit sliced and arranged – two of which were from his garden.  He also raises chickens, so he has fresh eggs!  He made me scrambled eggs with salmon.  This is hands down our favorite place!  Before we left we talked to Jimmy for another half hour or so.

This is Jimmy’s home, but he worked for years as a chef in New York.  The result is the best of both worlds.  The mouthwatering food of a trained chef and the advice of a local.  Since the house is located in a Gaeltacht, Jimmy is a native Irish speaker and I was able to book our room through Irish.

Aside from the house, the Dingle peninsula is a spectacular place to visit.  You can read about it here.

Highlights:
– the BEST shower in Ireland
– Incredible breakfast (by FAR the best!) 

Price: Average (€35-40 per person sharing, children half price)

Hillcrest House – Letterkenny, Co. Donegal

If you are anywhere near Letterkenny, stay with Martin Anderson at Hillcrest House.  He is such a fantastic chef and a great host that it would be a shame to miss it.  The evening meal is ridiculously good.  He threw in a free desert (mouth watering raspberry crumble with ice cream) one stay and free wine on the other.  This place is great!  The rooms are not anything fancy, but are clean and comfortable.  The food and host however, more than make up the difference.

Martin is the reason we stayed in Letterkenny and not Derry or somewhere else on our last visit.  Upon our arrival, Martin tilted his head to one side and said, “You have stayed here before, haven’t you?”  I replied that I had, but it had been a few years.  He replied, “You were in Donegal studying Irish and came here with your parents.”  He was right, I had no idea that he would remember, especially after seven years.  Aside from his personality (which is a huge reason to book here) he is a professional chef and serves affordable evening meals that are better than I have had in any restaurant in Ireland.  Hillcrest House is a must visit B&B if you plan on visiting anything in the surrounding areas.

Martin also makes fantastic breakfasts.  Last time, I had a smoothie and French toast, he has a really amazing selection for breakfast!

Highlights:

– The food! (breakfast and dinner)
– The host
– It’s a nice location for touring either Donegal or Derry

Price:Average (about €40 per person sharing (dinner is extra))

Coopershill House – Riverstown, Co. Sligo

Arriving at Coopershill House is like entering Mount Vernon or Gunston Hall or Monticello must have been in the 1700s.  There is a one mile long drive lined by trees, pastures of deer, a river and then you see the house.  There is an opening in the trees that reveals a croquet lawn, a drive and a huge Manor house.  Simon (the owner) came out to help us with our bags.  His family built the house in 1774 and he still lives in it.  The house is amazing!

I’m so glad we decided to stay here!  We checked in about 4 PM and read, napped and showered.  About 6:30 we went for a walk down grass paths through the woods, next to the deer pastures.  It was like something from a children’s story.  The place is absolutely beautiful.  Also, hanging in the hall outside our bedroom door was what I believe is a famous portrait of Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Stafford by Van Dyck.  (Though I am not an expert at all!)

Simon upgraded us to a Superior room since there were only three other guests staying.  He was a really wonderful host.  That evening, we opted for the 5 course meal at 8:15.  It was fantastic, most of the items were grown on the grounds or at a nearby farm.  All of the main courses were meat, but the chef prepared a special dish for my non meat eating wife that she loved.

After the meal we were served coffee and tea in the drawing room.  Breakfast the next morning was excellent as well.  I had the cooked breakfast and my wife had a very delicious looking fruit plate.  The house is just beautiful, full of portraits of the family, stag heads, pikes, and other pieces of family history.

 

 

 

 

 

Obviously, staying at Simon’s is expensive when compared to a B&B or Guesthouse.  We stayed here as a treat and to give our trip a change of pace and are glad that we did.  We loved the peace and stillness that Coopershill provided, plus Simon makes you feel like a guest in his home during your stay (versus a paying guest). The house is deservedly featured in many guidebooks including Karen Brown, Ireland’s Blue Book and The Bridgestone Guide.  If you are looking for something upscale this is certain to please you.

Highlights:
– This house is special.  You actually are staying in the house with gentry (his parents live in a second house on the grounds)
– The grounds are beautiful and quiet

Price: Expensive (about €110 per person sharing (dinner is extra))

I have to admit that when I booked in at Evergreen I thought that it looked nice, but wasn’t expecting too much.  Upon arrival however, I was very impressed.  Located a short distance outside of Swords and only a 10-15 minute drive to Dublin airport, this will be where we stay every time we use Dublin Airport from now on.  Unless you want to be in Dublin city, this is the perfect base.  If you choose, Mary and Jimmy will drive you into Swords everyday after breakfast (which is a nice town) and from there you can take a 15 minute bus ride into Dublin city.

Jimmy greeted us upon our arrival and couldn’t have been nicer (especially since they were preparing for his birthday party!).  One unique thing about this B&B is that it is a nice place to relax.  Mary and Jimmy are really fantastic hosts, there are some really wonderful outdoor seating areas, a children’s play set and in our room there was nice little seating area.  Another big plus for this accommodation is that they have multiple family rooms and are able to comfortably accommodate four people in one room.

Highlights:
– The countryside is quiet and peaceful
– Family room with three beds (a King with two singles)
– Direct ground floor exit to outside of house
– Easy to relax even though it is B&B 

Price: Average (Our family room for four people was €169)

Category #2: If You Are In The Area, Stay Here

Dunromin – Kilkenny, Co. Kilkenny

Dunromin was a lovely B&B.  We had a single and double bed with a large bathroom (shower only) for €70 in 2008.  We stayed here for our first night after a long transatlantic journey.  Val was extremely helpful and cheery.  We were sad to leave.  We also had some really nice conversations with the other guests over a delicious breakfast — full fry and a bar with a
variety of cereal, peaches, mixed fruit salad, a bowl of apples, oranges and bananas and a pitcher of orange juice.

Val equipped everyone with either a map or very detailed directions to their next destination.