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Traffic jam in Mayo (2000)

When planning a trip to Ireland, one thing that is almost impossible to avoid is planning to do too much.  Even though I have been many, many times, I still am tempted to fall into this trap.  I don’t want this to happen to you and make your trip to Ireland stressful instead of wonderful.  We’ll take a look at our 2008 trip where we saw the entire island in a 15 day trip (17 if you count traveling to and from Ireland).

Below I have listed our planned itinerary and how that actually played out.  I chose this trip as an example because I had many trips to Ireland under my belt and wanted to show my wife EVERYTHING.  While you can’t see everything in a two week trip, you can see each part of the island and get the feel of the various regions in that amount of time.  If you want to read an in depth account of a particular day, click on the title next to that day.

If you would like reviews and suggestions of great places to stay, there is an entry here.

Glendalough

Planned Day 1:
Glendalough
Avoca
Kilkenny?
Stay in Kilkenny @ Dunromin

Actual Day 1 – Arriving in Ireland after a Transatlantic Flight
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.

We met a friend for breakfast in Dublin City and then drove to Avoca, the town where Ballykissangel was filmed. The drive from the Airport to Avoca is less than two hours.  We only spent 15-20 minutes here as we had some more distance to cover.  So, we got back in the car for the 40 minute drive to Glendalough.  It was a nice day and Glendalough was beautiful, but Sarah was starting to feel the effects of our overnight flight.  So off we went on our 2 hour drive to Kilkenny where we stayed the night.  By the time we reached our B&B at 6 PM, it had been a LONG day.

What we did right:  Got outside in the sun to reset our body clocks.

Our mistake(s):  Too much driving.  We would have been better off skipping one stop or driving to Kilkenny the next day.  

St. Kieran’s Church, Kells

Planned Day 2:
Kilkenny
Kells
Stay in Cahir @ Tinsley House on the Square

Actual Day 2 – Kilkenny and Kells
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We started the morning at Kilkenny Castle which was minutes from our B&B.  When we were finished, we headed to Kells Priory (one of my favorite sites in Ireland) and ate lunch in the village.  We then made the 45 minute drive to Cashel to see the Rock of Cashel.  From Cashel we drove to Cahir (1 hour and 10 minutes) where we spent the night and ate dinner.

What we did right: If all your days are like this, you had a great trip.  We even ended up seeing something that we had planned on seeing the next day (the Rock of Cashel).

Our mistake(s):  Nothing, it was a lovely day.

Cahir Castle

Planned Day 3:
Cahir Castle
Rock of Cashel
Stay on Ring of Kerry @ Shamrock House

Actual Day 3 – Cahir and the Ring of Kerry
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We started our day off with a run.  After breakfast we went to Cahir Castle (if you only visit one castle, go here).  When we finished our visit we made a 2 hour drive to Killarney.  We ate our picnic in the car park and arrived early to our B&B.  We went for a walk, dinner and then to the Staigue Fort (probably the best Stone Fort you will see).

What we did right:  We had a lot of down time but still were able to see a nice sight that we weren’t expecting to see.

Our mistake(s):  It was a wonderful day.  Taking the back road instead of the main road from our B&B to Sneem proved very tiring in poor weather.

The Dingle Peninsula

Planned Day 4:
Skellig Michael
Begin Dingle Peninsula
Stay in Dingle @ Coill an Rois

Actual Day 4 – The Ring of Kerry to the Dingle Peninsula
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We decided to skip Skellig Michael because the weather looked iffy.  We didn’t want to drive all the way there and then not be able to go out on the boat. So, we headed straight to Dingle Town.  Two hours later we were in Dingle and took in the Slea Head Loop.  We ended the loop at our B&B, refreshed ourselves and went out again.  We went to the Gallarus Oratory and Kilmalkader Church before heading into Dingle Town for dinner.  After dinner we walked around a bit, and made a stop at an Internet Cafe (with coffee).

What we did right: Skipped Skillig Michael.  If the weather was bad it would have meant a couple of hours driving without seeing the sight.  It also allowed us to see everything on the Dingle Peninsula without feeling rushed.

Our mistake(s):  None, but I do want to visit Skellig Michael sometime!

The Cliffs of Moher path

Planned Day 5:
Finish Dingle
ferry to Clare
Loop Head
Stay in Kilkee @ Keane’s Oyster Bar and Restaurant

Actual Day 5 – Cliffs of Moher and Clare
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We started the day off again with a run.  After breakfast we headed straight for the ferry to Clare.  The drive to Tarbert took about 1 1/2 hours.  The ferry trip is 20 minutes long and then you are in County Clare.  The weather was amazing so we skipped the Loop Head.  It seemed a waste to be in the car on such a nice day.  The trip to the Cliffs of Moher from here took about 1 hour and 15 minutes.  When we had finished there, we went to our B&B near Kilkee.

What we did right: Skipped the Loop Head and made the day more relaxing.  Nothing was rushed and we were able to enjoy the weather.

Our mistake(s): None.  I’ve never seen the Loop Head, so now I have a reason to visit again.

The Burren

Planned Day 6:
The Burren-Poulnabrone Dolmen
Cliffs of Moher
Dysert O’Dea
Craggaunowen
Quin Abbey?
Stay in Spiddal @ Ard Eoinin

Actual Day 6– Dysert O’Dea, The Burren and Galway
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We began the day at Dysert O’Dea.  Dysert O’Dea is nice because it ticks a lot of boxes for your trip, a castle, a monastery, high cross, civil war museum, tea room, nature walk, etc.  From there we drove through the Burren stopping many times along way (again enjoying amazing weather and a picnic).  Once out of the Burren it was on to Spiddal.  It was a lot of time in the car this day, but that’s really the only way to “do” the Burren.  We arrived early enough in Spiddal to enjoy walking along the sea and through the village on a very nice day.

What we did right: Cut out Craggaunnowen and Quin Abbey.  This enabled us to really take in Spiddal village and enjoy our time between checking in to our B&B and eating dinner.

Our mistake(s): We would have enjoyed more time in Spiddal, at this point in the trip a two night stay would have been welcome. 

The Seven Churches

Planned Day 7:
Fly from Connemara Airport (Aerfort na Minna) Depart 10 AM
Stay on Inis Mór

Actual Day 7– Inis Mór (Aran Islands)
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We woke, ate breakfast and then caught our flight to Inis Mór.  Upon landing a bus picked us up and took us to our B&B to drop off our bags.  We went down to the pier next, where we rented bicycles and took in all the sights.  This day was probably the highlight of our trip.

What we did right: Flying and getting the bikes.

Our mistake(s): None.  This was an amazing day that both of us still look back on fondly.

The view from our room at Seapoint House

Planned Day 8:
Depart Inis Mór at 10:15 AM
Clifden
Louisbourg
Croagh Patrick
Carrigahowley/Rockfleet Castle
Stay in Westport @ Seapoint House

Actual Day 8 – Clifden, Croagh Patrick and Westport
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.  
Once our return flight landed, we started the drive to Clifden.  We ate lunch and spent some time walking around the town.  At this point the trip started to catch up with us and Sarah had a sore throat.  From Clifden we went to Croagh Patrick and started up the mountain, but it was too foggy.  So, we went on to Westport.  After dinner we visited Rockfleet Castle near Newport.

What we did right: Skipping Louisbourg made the day not feel too rushed.

Our mistake(s): None.  This was a nice day in spite of the rain and fog.

The top of Knocknarea

Planned Day 9:
Ceide Fields
Carrowmore
Maebh’s Mound (Knocknarea)
Carrowkeel
Stay in Riverstown, Co. Sligo @ Coopershill House

Actual Day 9 – Carrowmore and Knocknarea
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We started our day with another run.  Our first stop of the day was Carrowmore, followed by a hike up Knocknararea.  Since Sarah was fighting a cold and we were both feeling tired, we ended our day at 4 o’clock and relaxed at our B&B.

What we did right:  Cutting out sights because we were worn down.

Our mistake(s): It might have been a good place to spend two days instead of one. 

Slieve League

Planned Day 10:
Ceide Fields
Carrowmore
Maebh’s Mound (Knocknarea)
Carrowkeel
Listoghil?

Stay in Teelin @ Teelin Bay House

Actual Day 10 – Donegal Town and the Slieve League Peninsula
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We began the day with another run.  We missed the Water Bus trip in Donegal Town, so we visited the abbey and ate lunch.  Next, we drove to Slieve League.  We went to the top of the cliffs, then went out on the Nuala Star to view the cliffs from the ocean.

What we did right:  A nice laid back day.  Not too much driving and not too much planned.

Our mistake(s):  None.  This was a very good day, but would have been better if we stayed an extra day.

St. Columb’s Cathedral

Planned Day 11:
Donegal Town
St. John’s Point
Bunglass (Sliabh Liag)
Glencolmcille

Stay in Letterkenny at Hilllcrest House

Actual Day 11–  Glencolmcille and Derry
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We began the day with a trip to the beautiful Silver Strand and a brief stop over in Glencolmcille.  From Glencolmcille we headed to Derry and took a walking tour of the City Walls.  When we were finished we headed back to Letterkenny where we were staying that night.

What we did right:  Since we were ahead of schedule, we just keep on going (instead of backtracking to see St. John’s Point).

Our mistake(s):  Probably too much of the day was in the car.

The Giant’s Causeway

Planned Day 12:
Derry
Giant’s Causeway
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Stay in Lisburn, Co. Antrim @ Oakfield Guest house

Actual Day 12 – The Bogside Murals and the Giant’s Causeway
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We went back to Derry in the morning and took pictures of the Bogside Murals and then went to the (very well done) Free Derry Museum.  Then we were off to the Giant’s Causeway (Sarah’s must see sight).  The weather was amazing and the northern coast was beautiful.  Both were unforgettable.

What we did right: Went to the Free Derry Museum, picnicked by the sea and skipped the Rope Bridge.

Our mistake(s):  None

The Entrance to the Newgrange tomb

Planned Day 13:
Belfast
Falls Road Murals
Black Taxi

Stay in Dublin at Number 31

Actual Day 13 – Belfast and Newgrange
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We started the morning by sleeping in.  First stop of the day was the Belfast Tourist Information Center to arrange a Black Taxi tour.  Since we couldn’t get one in the morning, we stopped by St. Anne’s Cathedral for a look and gave ourselves a tour of the Falls Road (the Gaeltacht Quarter).  When we were finished it was off to Newgrange (if you only see one sight- this is the one).

What we did right: Didn’t waste an hour and a half waiting for the Black Taxi tour.  Got out of town before the 12th of July.

Our mistake(s):  Took the M1 instead the A1 when leaving Belfast.  This “detour” made the day more stressful.

Trinity College

Planned Days 14 & 15:
Dublin
Planned Day 16:
Depart for Home

Actual Day 14 – Trinity College and the National Gallery
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.

We began our day with the Tour of Trinity College (which includes seeing the Book of Kells).  Stop number 2 was the National Gallery where we viewed the Jack Yeats exhibition as well as Caravaggio’s “The Taking of Christ”.  We arrived too late for the last tour of Dublin Castle, so we continued on to the Cobblestone Bar for a pint.

What we did right:  The art gallery was a nice change of pace for us.  Taking a few peaceful minutes to soak in Dublin at the Cobblestone Bar.

Our mistake(s): We didn’t check ahead of time to see when the last tour for Dublin Castle would be.  We easily could have arrived five minutes earlier and made the tour.

Grafton Street

Actual Day 15 – Dublin and Kilmainham Jail
Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We were both tired, so we only saw one “sight” today.  We took some time to appreciate St. Stephen’s Green and Grafton street on our last day in Dublin.  Then we walked to Kilmainham Jail which was really moving (perhaps more so because it was the 12th of July).  A very laid back day, but we needed one.  A long (and full) trip had caught up with us.

What we did right:  Made sure to slow down the pace and really appreciate the sight we visited as well as enjoying the neighborhood where we were staying.

Our mistake(s):  We didn’t do this type of day in the middle of the trip.

Summary of the trip:

We had a good trip and created some really wonderful memories that we will have for the rest of our marriage.  We managed to see most of the island and most of the real “must-sees” for a typical visitor to Ireland.  As always, there are some things that we might change if we had the chance to do it again.  Let’s look at some of those things.

What we did right:

1) We did a pretty good job leaving out items on our itinerary if they were going to make the day stressful or too long.

2) We also took some breaks to let our minds and/or bodies rest.

3) We went north.  In my opinion it’s a crime to not go north of Sligo.  There are so many unique things to see that most people miss.

4) We got the Heritage Card.  If you are going to many of the sights maintained by the government, it will pay itself off quickly.

Our mistakes:

1) We did too much the first day.  We could have easily stayed somewhere near Glendalough for the night and still been able to be in Kilkenny by the time everything opened the next morning.

2)  Somewhere on the west coast we should have spend two nights in one place.  A week into our trip we both were getting tired.  We would have benefited from spending an extra night near Westport or Sligo (and eliminating one in Sligo or Donegal).  In addition to some much needed rest,  we could have seen some things we skipped and still not fallen behind on our schedule.

It’s easy for even an experienced traveler to get sucked into doing too much.  Ireland is a wonderful, welcoming place to visit and offers a wide range of sights.  You can’t see everything, so as Rick Steves often says, “Always plan like you will return.”

Books I would recommend using when making your plans:

The internet is wonderful and extremely helpful, but I still like to use travel books to plan my trips.  The internet is the best place to find out about accommodations, but the books do a better job detailing Irish sights.  All guidebooks have strengths and weaknesses, these are some good ones with brief comments about each.

Frommer’s Easy Guide Ireland & Ireland (Complete Guide) –  This is the original European guidebook.  The main thing that makes this attractive is all Frommer’s book were updated for 2018.  The main drawback is that the Easy Guide does not cover every county (the trade-off for the book being small).  I like the Easy Guide, but wish there was more of it.

The best of the 2018 books however is Frommer’s Ireland (Complete Guide).  The Complete Guide is extensive and has some large color foldout maps.  I was disappointed by the 2016 Complete Guide.  It complains about road signs being in Irish because many maps don’t use the official names of towns, but then includes a map that also does not give you the official names of towns which exacerbates the problem!  For the updated editions, all of the negatives comments about the Irish language have been removed.

Fodor’s Ireland – This was the best of the bunch for 2017.  In the past I have not really been impressed by Fodor’s Ireland, but the last two years they have put out good books.  Many of the other new editions do not include all areas of the island, but this one does a good job.  If you are looking for a book to take with you to Ireland this is the one.

They also address a pet peeve of mine, listing the English language place names in Gaeltacht regions (since English names do not appear on any signs).  Fodor lists place names  in Irish speaking areas using the Irish language name (as it appears on signs) and in parenthesis gives the old English name.  Most other books will tell you that the road sign gives the names in Irish but proceed to tell you about the place without using the Irish language name.  An updated book goes on sale in September, 2018.

Lonely Planet Ireland –  A good resource with a very popular following.  I am pleased to say that the 2016 edition is a return to form (this is the most recent edition).  The newest edition is a really good guidebook.  It includes all areas of the island, and has nice sections explaining the culture and history.  If you only use one guidebook, this is the one I would recommend.  They had not really done any updating since the mid-2000s, but this update was a pleasant surprise.

Let’s Go Ireland – This was my Bible when I went to Ireland in 2000 & 2001.  The writing was candid, clever and funny and I really loved reading it.  Unfortunately, they never really updated it.  This is the 2007 edition.  If you’ve never been to Ireland before this is still a good read.

Cadogan Ireland – This is a wonderful book, but has not been updated since 2008.  Even so, I love this book.  It’s chock full of all kinds of places that no one else will tell you about (most of them free).  I like to copy the pages for the areas that I am visiting and throw away the pages once I have already left the area.

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