by

12 July 2016

When we woke this morning the sun was shining and the sky was clear, it was absolutely beautiful.  After breakfast we went to the Gleann playground while we waited for Éamonn’s bus.    In one of the proudest moments of my life, the children ran over to to the seesaw and both began singing,
“Suí sá
Maidí rámha;
Fear na breille,
I ndeireadh an bháid!”

 

After Éamonn was safely on the bus, we headed to Sliabh Liag, the highest accessible sea cliffs in Europe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This was my first visit to Sliabh Liag since 2008 and the changes since that time are drastic!  The road all the way up has been flattened out and is pretty wide now (two cars can pass easily without any concern).  They have also constructed additional parking areas that look like they have restrooms.  Not only that but a steady stream of buses (coaches) were making the trip up to the cliffs.

The old road was not big enough for coaches, but was just big enough for two way traffic.  We worked our way to the top car park and I was shocked by the number of vehicles that we found there.  The carpark was completely filled and about 10 additional cars were parked along the side of the road.  There was also a steady stream of people walking up from the lower car park.

We parked on the side of the road and started up the path.  There were easily 100 people there plus an ice cream stand and a jumper (sweater) stand.  I assume that this is mostly the result of the Wild Atlantic Way.  To be honest I have mixed feelings about this.  It is wonderful to see the local people finally receiving economic benefit from the mountain, but the quiet charm that I grew to love at this place is harder to find than before.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is still stunning but very, very different than it used to be.  There is now a paved path and a viewing platform that I had never seen before.  The crowd begins to thin just after the viewing platform.  At the end of the paved walkway is the (what in my mind is new) set of stepping stones that were added last decade and if you continue on eventually you reach the worn bog trails that have always been there.  Here is where things began to look “normal” to me as the crowd was spread out and the number of people decreased.  The fences also disappear, so Fionnuala (4) and I did not proceed beyond this, but Liam (7) and Sarah continued up to enjoy the climb and views.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The children really enjoyed the climb and especially enjoyed the ice cream, which was very good.  One thing that hasn’t changed a bit since my first visit in 2000 is the amazing scenery between the lower carpark and the top carpark.  It used to be impossible to fully appreciate this if you were driving because the road required absolute focus, but now the road is wide enough for you to sneak a few peeks on your way up and down.  This is still one of the best places in Ireland, it just takes a little more effort to find what once was an unavoidable sense of peacefulness.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After the cliffs we returned to the house for lunch, then set off for An Port.  An Port is one of the (some say the) oldest maritime ports in Donegal.  Like Sliabh Liag, one of the most impressive things about Port is the approach.  During our approach today the children were completely unimpressed by the stunning scenery but did very much enjoy when we got to follow a herd of sheep as they relocated.  Unlike a lot of places An Port actually feels more isolated than it used to.  I was however, completely shocked to find nine other cars parked there when we arrived at the end of the road.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the past, there was often only one other car present when I visited.  Today, there were a lot of artists who were sketching or painting.  For a long time, there was was small fishing village here.  Today all that remains is a set of abandoned house on the hillside.  Local tradition holds that the during the Famine the entire village simply packed up and followed the road over the mountain to Gleann Cholm Cille and since that time the village has been empty.  Local tradition also holds that the only death in Gleann during the Famine was from someone who fell while trying to get a egg out of a bird nest.  You can still follow the road the villagers took to Gleann Cholm Cille.  It is the large dirt road that starts at the car park and winds up the mountain (across the bridge).  It is a really enjoyable walk with some lovely views.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We chose to walk down and across the stony beach to where the river empties into the ocean and then back to the road.  Liam stopped to ask one of the artists about her work and she explained what she was working on and the whole process that she would use for her painting.  She was very nice to him and he very much enjoyed listening to her explanation.  We all enjoyed this place very much.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After An Port, we headed to Ardara for some groceries at the Centra.  From An Port, our drive took us through Gleann Gheise and the amazing Glengesh Pass.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I originally thought that we might head back to the beach in Narin, but we were all so tired that we headed home.  The weather was perfect today!  The sun was bright and lasted all the way through the evening.  There truly is no place more beautiful when the sun is shining.

Gaeilge Experience:  TV, Radio, interacting with our Irish-speaking house guest in the morning

by